How do you balance functionality and aesthetics when creating a lighting plan? Lighting sometimes falls by the wayside during the planning stages and is often overlooked for more grandiose aspects of our designs. But when a project is complete, the impact of good or bad lighting can be immediately felt—at which point, it’s too late to rectify. 

Rebecca Weir, creative director at Light IQ, says ‘Architectural lighting should be discussed at the outset of a project.’ Doing so helps avoid common mistakes made with new-build projects, where lighting is too often an afterthought.

1. Aesthetic Goals

Lighting isn’t simply a means to eliminate darkness. Identifying specific goals for each lighting element helps us decide what kinds of light to choose, as well as the colour, intensity, and shape.

When someone steps into a room, how do you want them to feel? The intensity and colour temperature of the light creates a certain ambiance. Consider these two contrasting goals and their respective solutions:

• Goal: cosy, intimate dining room – Solution: low light dimmers. 
• Goal: a study room that inspires productivity – Solution: bright, cool lighting.

Get it the wrong way round and you may well induce a person to sleep in their office or study.

Ambience is just one goal you might want to consider; you can also manipulate lighting to:

• Accentuate specific elements – Lighting can be strategically placed to highlight artwork on walls or sculptures.
• Make a space feel bigger – Recessed lighting in the ceiling can create an illusion of greater height, making the room feel larger and more expansive.
• Spark conversation and impress – Installing a statement piece gets people’s attention the moment they walk in.

The challenge lies in finding lighting that meets multiple goals. It’s not enough to simply have a contemporary light fitting if the lighting is inadequate or casts unwanted shadows.

You need lighting where form follows function.

2. Natural Light Considerations

Artificial lights are one part of the equation. Natural light is another aspect that’s often overlooked, and it has a significant effect on people’s psychological state and how they behave. 

Living in the UK, especially during those short, dark winter days, your goal may be to invite as much natural light as possible. In which case, be mindful that north-facing rooms receive less direct sunlight during the day compared to rooms facing other directions.

In another room, however—say, a study—too much light may cause screen glare. Ever heard of smart glass? It can change its transparency to control glare, but it also contributes to heat gain, improving energy efficiency.

One of the most convenient options for letting in natural light that’s favoured by developers is a skylight, and they come in many forms:

• Pitched skylights – can be opened and closed
• Fixed skylights – stationary and cannot be opened
• Ventilating skylights – can be opened and closed
• Pyramid skylights – often used in commercial buildings or atriums

There’s nothing quite like standing beneath a skylight during a storm. 

Be mindful that too many windows can cause a greenhouse effect, with buildings overheating in the sun and rapidly losing heat when the temperature drops. 

3. Energy Efficiency and Sustainability

The energy efficiency of every product we use is becoming increasingly important from a sustainability perspective. Not only that, buildings that are more energy-efficient can attract higher sale values, both in private and commercial sectors.

Research led by the real estate consultant JLL examined 592 offices in Central London and found that Capital values were on average 20.6% higher as a result of BREEAM certification.

So, what can we do to lessen the energy consumption of a property through our lighting plan? 

• Install dimmers – adjusting the brightness levels avoids wasting energy for excessive light and gives greater control of the setting of the ambiance.
• Select the right lamps – LED light bulbs are currently the most efficient option, particularly chip-on-board (COB) which offers higher lumen output and better energy efficiency.
• Avoid certain light fixtures – does a property really need countless spotlights, accent lighting in unused areas, and excessive landscape lighting?
• Use motion sensors and timers – automatically control lighting, ensuring lights are only active when necessary, thus reducing energy waste.
• Implement automation – manage lighting schedules and preferences to optimise energy usage and enhance overall efficiency.

It’s worth noting that Wi-Fi-operated automations, colloquially known as ‘vampire appliances’, still consume fractions of power when on standby or turned off.

4. Ambient, Task, & Accent Lighting

Lighting layering refers to the technique of using multiple types of lights and fixtures within one space. There are essentially three layers of lighting:

• Ambient lighting – natural light, ceiling fixtures, etc.

• Task lighting – pendant lighting, kitchen worktop lighting, floor lamps, etc.

• Accent lighting – wall sconces, cove lighting, step lighting, etc.

While layering requires more complex planning and installation, there are many benefits for the occupants, namely improving comfort by avoiding unnecessary brightness when not needed.

For instance, in a museum, ambient lighting from skylights and ceiling fixtures are the main ambient light sources, while task lighting directs light towards specific exhibits, and accent lighting highlights individual artworks.

At home, a similar approach could be applied in a study where windows and ceiling lights provide ambient lighting, desk lamps offer task lighting for work surfaces, and LED strips or backlights illuminate the edge of the desk for added visibility.

5. Up-Lighting, Down-Lighting, & Cross-Lighting

The position of lighting helps create certain atmospheric effects. Have you considered any of the following when designing your lighting system?

• Up-lighting involves positioning light fixtures at ground level to illuminate architectural features from below, such as columns, trees, or facades.
• Down-lighting or overhead lighting involves mounting fixtures on high surfaces to highlight specific areas, such as seating areas or pathways.
• Cross-lighting involves placing fixtures at opposing angles to illuminate to accentuate an object’s profile and texture.

Before you commit, it’s worth noting the following drawbacks of each:

• Uplights don’t evenly illuminate large areas or tall spaces, leading to uneven lighting distribution and potential shadows in certain areas.
• Downlights positioned at eye level or with insufficient shielding cause glare, which some may find too dazzling.
• Cross-lighting produces pronounced shadows, disrupting the overall appeal of adjacent walls and the coherence of the environment.

These types of lighting aren’t generally necessities, but they more distinctly convey the character and mood of a particular space.

6. Wall Washing

Those who obsess about uniformity will appreciate the washing technique—which is where a uniform layer of light is projected over a surface, typically a wall or ceiling, to create an even glow.

Wall washing the axes of a room and its functional areas clear, and a bright background is pleasant to the eye (which can even prevent fatigue). 

Certain lights, like light bars with adjustable spotlights, are notorious for creating bright spots and shadowed areas.

The solution to achieving uniformity lies in making two choices:

• Light fitting type – choose something unshaded or unobstructed; recessed spotlights tend to create an even glow; even lights with transparent decorations refract light and cast shadows.
• Strategic placement of lights – consider the proximity of light fittings and the walls as well as the angle of the light fixture’s lamps.

Wall washing, when done correctly, affects our perception of a room’s size.

Creating a Lighting Scheme for Your Project

The interplay of light and shadow goes beyond the simple hitting of a switch; it’s an art form that shapes our perception of space and influences how we interact with it. 

Perhaps the biggest pitfall is when we design a lighting plan that’s homogenous throughout a property. Each room—and even space—has its own lighting needs. When creating a lighting scheme, it’s helpful to consider each room in isolation before firming up a specification.

Frequently Asked Questions About Lighting Plans

Here are some frequently asked questions about lighting plans.

What is a BREEAM-certified building?

BREEAM is the world’s leading sustainability assessment method that scrutinises the acquisition, design, construction, and operation of a development. Central to its evaluation are sustainability objectives spanning diverse categories, including energy, land use, ecology, and water.

What’s the difference between ambient, task, and accent lighting?

Ambient lighting acts as the main light source in a space, task lighting offers targeted illumination for particular activities (like a bright desk lamp when writing), and accent lighting draws attention to specific elements within a room (such as a spotlight for an ornamental vase)

What is architectural lighting design?

Architectural lighting is the intersection of art (architecture) and technology (lighting). It serves to emphasise a building’s aesthetic, history, and purpose. Physics, engineering, and the psychological effects of light also influence architectural lighting design.

With an aging population in the UK, Bungalows are in high demand. The average price of a bungalow rose by 17% in 2023, compared with 13% for houses and 5% for flats. The rising demand (and prices) has many wondering what the total cost of building a bungalow is. Naturally, building costs vary by size, type, and complexity, so in this article, we’ll cover the cost of building a bungalow across various regions in the UK.To give you an accurate view, we’ll compare the cost of building three different types of bungalows:

• Two-bedroom bungalow (90m2)
• Three-bedroom bungalow (100m2)
• Three-bedroom bungalow with garage and driveway (125m2)

Let’s delve into the cost breakdown for each bungalow, as well as the average costs per sq metre, to ensure your project is accurately costed and to minimise overspend.

The Bungalow Bottleneck

With no stairs, bungalows are practical for people who have mobility issues, but there aren’t enough of them to go around. The National House Building Council (NHBC) says bungalows are “on the critically endangered list” after construction recently hit an 80-year low.

There are just 228 new bungalows registered to be built between July and September 2024. But the need to provide housing for those aged 65 and over has reached a critical point. Right now, there are over 10 million people currently aged 65 and over (18% of the population).

In the next 40 years, the number of people:

• Aged 65-79 is predicted to increase by 30% to over 10 million.
• Aged 80 and over is set to more than double to over 6 million.

Is now a good time to build a new bungalow? Demand is certainly not lacking, but developers find it challenging to make them financially viable due to limited space and lower profit margins compared to two-storey homes.

Let’s take a look at how much they cost.

Building A Bungalow Construction Cost Calculations

In our calculations, we applied a consistent methodology across nine regions: East Anglia, London, the Midlands, North England, Northern Ireland, Scotland, South East England, South West England, and Wales.

In terms of build specification, BuildPartner’s pricing tool gives you three broad options (which can be revised by item at a later point):

• Low spec is a basic finish; e.g. Leyland, Everest, Wickes.
• Mid spec is a standard finish; e.g. Dulux, Hamilton, Slim Line.
• High spec is a high-spec finish; e.g. Farrow & Ball, Fine Line, Siemens.

To keep our comparisons simple, we have chosen mid spec in all our cost estimations. We’ve also provided three different benchmarks to show the types of contractors. These are:

• Low benchmark – smaller companies are generally lower cost but less specialised and with low project management function; good for low/mid-spec projects and tight budgets.

• Mid benchmark – medium-sized companies offer a balanced mix of cost-effectiveness and specialisation; good for mid-range projects for effective execution within moderate budgets.
• High benchmark – larger companies generally have a higher cost base but can handle a wide variety of specialist tasks; good for mid/high-spec projects and project management.

Cost Of Building A Two-Bed Bungalow (90m2)

Below is a table showing the average cost of building a two-bedroom bungalow (90m2) in the UK, comprising the following rooms:

• Two bedrooms
• Open-plan kitchen-living-dining room
• Bathroom
• Cloakroom
• Pantry

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a two-bedroom bungalow (90m2):

• It costs 20% more to build a two-bedroom bungalow in London than in other regions.
• The minimum cost is £146,917 and the maximum cost is £227,662.
• The total average cost is £173,888, or £1,951 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Three-Bed Bungalow (100m2)

Below is a table showing the average cost of building a three-bedroom bungalow (100m2) in the UK, comprising the following rooms:

• Three bedrooms
• Open-plan kitchen-living-dining room
• Bathroom
• Cloakroom
• Pantry
• Separate WC

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a three-bedroom bungalow (100m2):

• The minimum cost is £157,344 and the maximum cost is £244,445.
• The total average cost is £186,225, or £1,881 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Three-Bed Bungalow With Garage & Driveway (125m2)

Below is a table showing the average cost of building a three-bedroom bungalow (125m2) with a garage and driveway, comprising the following:

• Three bedrooms
• Open-plan kitchen-living-dining room
• Bathroom
• Cloakroom
• Pantry
• Separate WC
• Garage with a pitched roof
• Driveway

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a three-bedroom bungalow (125m2):

• The minimum cost is £164,058 and the maximum cost is £259,317.
• The total average cost is £198,054, or £1,584 per square metre.

How Much Does It Cost To Build A Bungalow In 2024?

So, how much does it cost to build a new bungalow in the UK? That depends largely on where you are building. Based on the three types of bungalows covered in this article, building a bungalow could cost on average (when using a mid-benchmark contractor):

• Two-bed bungalow (90m2) – £174,257, or £1,956 per square metre
• Three-bed bungalow (100m2) – £188,284, or £1,902 per square metre
• Three-bed bungalow w. garage/driveway (125m2) – £198,801, or £1,590 per square metre

Please remember all costs exclude VAT.

Other Build Costs To Factor In

Please note that these costs do not encompass utility fees like gas, water, and electricity, nor do they include design fees for NHBC, architects, civil engineers, structural engineers, or party wall agreements. Additionally, costs for anomalies such as ground obstructions, contaminated waste, or project-specific site requirements are excluded. There is no contingency included in these costs, which would typically add around 5% to the budget.

Frequently Asked Questions About Build Cost Of Bungalows

Here are some frequently asked questions about building a bungalow in the UK.

Can I build a bungalow in my back garden?

You can build a bungalow in your back garden, subject to obtaining planning permission from your local authority. There are building regulations and guidelines you’ll need to adhere to, such as those concerning the size, height, and distance from property boundaries. 

Can you build up on a bungalow?

It’s possible to build upward on a bungalow by adding additional floors on top of the existing single-storey structure. Although the foundations are already in place, any plan to build upward would require an evaluation of their capacity to support additional floors.

As always, you would need to obtain planning permission from your local authority before proceeding, as there are regulations and guidelines governing building height, structural integrity, and aesthetics.

Is there a shortage of bungalows?

Construction of new-build bungalows has hit an 80-year low, and there is a huge demand for accessible living due to the ageing population. However, building upwards instead of on the ground floor allows a builder to maximise land usage (particularly where land is expensive) and create more dwellings within the same footprint.

Estimating the cost of building a porch is challenging when the economy is wrestling with inflation. Material costs and labour have risen substantially. We’ll bring you up to speed on just how much to ensure your project is accurately costed and to minimise overspend.r Naturally, building costs vary by size, type, and complexity, so in this article, we’ll cover the cost of building a porch across various regions in the UK.

To give you an accurate view of costs, we’ll compare four different types of porches:

• Brick porch – constructed with bricks.
• Rendered porch – built with blocks and a rendered finish.
• Timber porch (enclosed) – made primarily from wood.
• Open porch – without enclosed walls, and offering an external shelter.

Let’s explore the cost breakdown for each type of porch, to help you make an informed decision about on which is best for your construction project.

Building A Porch Construction Cost Calculations

In our calculations, we applied a consistent methodology across different regions. The cost comparisons are based on a gross external floor area (GEFA) of 3m². You can build a porch as large as this without submitting a planning permission application.

The only exception is the open porch. Our calculation for this is based on a GEFA of 2m2, which more than suffices.

In terms of build specification BuildPartner pricing tool gives you three broad options (which can be revised by item at a later point):

• Low spec is a basic finish; e.g. Leyland, Everest, Wickes.
• Mid spec is a standard finish; e.g. Dulux, Hamilton, Slim Line.
• High spec is a high-spec finish; e.g. Farrow & Ball, Fine Line, Siemens.

To keep this comparison simple, we have chosen mid spec in all our cost estimations. In addition to this, we have also provided three different benchmarks to show the range you can expect amongst different contractors. These are:

• Low benchmark – smaller companies are generally lower cost but less specialised and with low project management function; good for low/mid-spec projects and tight budgets.

• Mid benchmark – medium-sized companies offer a balanced mix of cost-effectiveness and specialisation; good for mid-range projects for effective execution within moderate budgets.

• High benchmark – larger companies generally have a higher cost base but can handle a wide variety of specialist tasks; good for mid/high-spec projects and project management.

Cost Of Building A Brick Porch

Here’s a table showing the average cost of building a 3m2 brick porch in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a brick porch:

• It costs 21% more to build a porch in London than in other regions.
• The minimum cost is £6,454 and the maximum cost is £10,094.
• The total average cost is £7,684, or £2,587 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Rendered Porch

Here’s a table showing the average cost of building a 3m2 rendered porch in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a rendered porch:

• The minimum cost is £5,859 and the maximum cost is £9,241.
• The total average cost is £7,084, or £2,361 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Timber Porch

Here’s a table showing the average cost of building a 3m2 timber porch in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a timber porch:

• The minimum cost is £5,451 and the maximum cost is £7,940.
• The total average cost is £6,350, or £2,138 per square metre.

Cost Of Building An Open Porch

Here’s a table showing the average cost of building a 2m2 open porch:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building an open porch:

• The minimum cost is £2,328 and the maximum cost is £3,533.
• The total average cost is £2,752, or £1,389 per square metre.

Summary Of The Average Cost To Build A Porch

So, how much does it cost to build a new porch in the UK? That depends largely on where you are building. If you’re building a porch in London, it will cost you an average of 21% more, whereas if you’re building in North England, it will cost you around 8% less on average.

Based on the four different types of porches covered in this article, you can expect building a porch to cost on average (when using a mid-benchmark contractor):

• Brick porch – £7,765, or £2,615 per square metre
• Rendered porch – £7,110, or £2,370 per square metre
• Timber porch (enclosed) – £6,370, or £2,145 per square metre
• Open porch – £2,758, or £1,393 per square metre

Please remember all costs exclude VAT.

Frequently Asked Questions About Building A Porch

Here are some frequently asked questions about building a porch.

Can I build a porch without planning permission?

Porches are generally regarded as permitted developments, providing they adhere to certain conditions. The gross external floor area must not exceed three square metres, and the porch must be no higher than three metres above ground level. Also, the porch must be more than two metres away from the boundary of the property.

Does a porch add value to a house?

It’s not possible to quantify the extent to which a porch adds value to a property. However, a new porch boosts curb appeal and increased the perceived value of the property. It also serves as an extra barrier against heat loss, making it harder for heat to escape a house, increasing the overall energy efficiency.

How long does it take to build a porch?

Building a porch can take anywhere between a few days to a few weeks. It depends on the complexity of the project and waiting times. If, for example, you’re waiting for a heating engineer to connect pipework and install a radiator, the project could take longer. 

The same is true of other trades, such as roofers, electricians, plasterers, and joiners. One to two weeks would be reasonable, providing tradesmen are aligned to the project timelines.

The cost of building a new garage has risen in the last few years. Naturally, building costs vary by size, type, and complexity, so in this article, we’ll cover the cost of building a garage across various regions in the UK. 

To give you an accurate view of costs, we’ll also compare four different types of garages: a single garage with a flat roof, a single garage with a pitched roof, a double garage with a flat roof, and a double garage with a pitched roof.

Building A Garage Construction Cost Calculations

In our calculations, we applied a consistent methodology across different regions. The cost comparisons are based on the garage being an extension appended to an existing dwelling, not building a new detached structure.

The typical sizes of garages in the UK are:

• Single – 10 x 18 feet (3m × 5.5m, with a gross external area of 16.5m2)
• Double – 18 x 18 feet (5.5m × 6m, with a gross external area of 33m2)

We have used both of these measurements to calculate the costs in this article.

In terms of build specification when using our BuildPartner pricing tool, our pricing calculator gives you three broad options (which can be revised by item at a later point):

• Low spec is a basic finish; e.g. Leyland, Everest, Wickes.
• Mid spec is a standard finish; e.g. Dulux, Hamilton, Slim Line.
• High spec is a high-spec finish; e.g. Farrow & Ball, Fine Line, Siemens.

To keep this comparison simple, we have chosen mid spec in all our cost estimations. In addition to this, we have also provided three different benchmarks to show the range you can expect amongst different contractors. These are:

• Low benchmark – smaller companies are generally lower cost but less specialised and with low project management function; good for low/mid-spec projects and tight budgets.

• Mid benchmark – medium-sized companies offer a balanced mix of cost-effectiveness and specialisation; good for mid-range projects for effective execution within moderate budgets.

• High benchmark – larger companies generally have a higher cost base but can handle a wide variety of specialist tasks; good for mid/high-spec projects and project management.

Cost Of Building A Single Garage With A Flat Roof

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a single garage with a flat roof in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a single garage with a flat roof:

• It costs 23% more to build a garage in London than in other regions.
• The minimum cost is £21,047 and the maximum cost is £32,987.
• The total average cost is £25,023, or £1,516 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Single Garage With A Pitched Roof

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a single garage with a pitched roof in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a single garage with a pitched roof:

• The minimum cost is £24,686 and the maximum cost is £39,296.
• The total average cost is £29,668, or £2,382 per square metre.
  

Cost Of Building A Double Garage With A Flat Roof

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a double garage with a flat roof in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a double garage with a flat roof:

• The minimum cost is £30,039 and the maximum cost is £47,397.
• The total average cost is £35,882, or £1,186 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Double Garage With A Pitched Roof

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a double garage with a pitched roof in the UK:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a single garage with a pitched roof:

• The minimum cost is £35,840 and the maximum cost is £57,322.
• The total average cost is £43,204, or £1,428 per square metre.

Summary Of The Average Cost To Build A Garage

So, how much does it cost to build a new garage in the UK? That depends largely on where you are building. If you’re building a garage in London, it will cost you an average of 23% more, whereas if you’re building in North England, it will cost you around 8% less on average.

Based on the four different types of garages covered in this article, you can expect building a garage to cost on average (when using a mid-benchmark contractor):

• Single with flat roof – £24,993, or £1,515 per square metre
• Single with pitched roof – £29,770, or £1,804 per square metre
• Double with flat roof – £36,004, or £1,190 per square metre
• Double with pitched roof – £43,355, or £1,433 per square metre

You’ll notice that the cost per square metre decreases as the project size increases due to more efficient resource utilisation and lower average costs, leading to economies of scale.

Please remember that these costs are based on appending an extension to an existing dwelling, not building a new detached structure – and all costs exclude VAT.

In the ever-evolving landscape of construction and home improvement, the question of building costs is perennially at the forefront of any designer’s mind—materials, labour, compliance with the latest building regulations, and VAT of course.

Naturally, the cost of building an extension varies by size, type, and complexity, so in this article, we’ll break down the costs across various regions in the UK. We’ll also look at four types of extensions:

• Single-storey rear extension
• Double-storey rear extension
• Ground-floor wrap-around extension
• Brick porch extension

We’ll explore both the total project costs and costs per square metre. At the end of the article, we’ll summarise with a comparison to give you a holistic view of the costs of building an extension.

Building An Extension Construction Cost Calculations

In our calculations, we applied a consistent methodology across different regions. The cost comparisons are based on the following:

• The roof of the extension is pitched, not flat.
• The extension is constructed out of brick/block, not a timber frame.

As far as rooms are concerned, we included the following in our calculations:

• Single-storey rear extension – dining room, utility room, WC.
• Double-storey rear extension – dining room, utility room, WC, two bedrooms, an en-suite bathroom, a storage room, small landing.
• Ground-floor wrap-around extension – dining room, utility room, WC, boot/cloakroom.
• Brick porch extension – vacant space.

If you’d like to try a demo of our pricing tool, sign up here.

Which rooms you choose ultimately affects the overall cost of the extension. If we were adding a room for a kitchen instead of a dining room in these extensions, we would need to factor in the cost of fitting a kitchen and the appliances – which would bump up the cost.

Important! To keep things simple, we’ve only included the costs to build the extension, not the costs to refurbish and remodel the existing space.

So, when somebody asks “How much does it cost to build an extension?” it depends entirely on the nature of the project.

There’s no single answer.

But by sharing with you the specifications for these examples, you’ll leave with a much clearer idea of the range and average costs. When using our BuildPartner pricing tool, our pricing calculator gives you three broad options (which can be revised by item at a later point):

• Low spec is a basic finish; e.g. Leyland, Everest, Wickes.
• Mid spec is a standard finish; e.g. Dulux, Hamilton, Slim Line.
• High spec is a high-spec finish; e.g. Farrow & Ball, Fine Line, Siemens.

To keep this comparison simple, we have chosen mid spec in all our cost estimations. In addition to this, we have also provided three different benchmarks to show the range you can expect amongst different contractors. These are:

• Low benchmark – smaller companies are generally lower cost but less specialised and with low project management function; good for low/mid-spec projects and tight budgets.
• Mid benchmark – medium-sized companies offer a balanced mix of cost-effectiveness and specialisation; good for mid-range projects for effective execution within moderate budgets.
• High benchmark – larger companies generally have a higher cost base but can handle a wide variety of specialist tasks; good for mid/high-spec projects and project management.

In short, contractor pricing varies due to factors such as expertise, location, and project intricacies.

Cost Of Building A Single-Storey Rear Extension

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a single-storey rear extension with a gross external area of 30 square metres:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a single-storey rear extension:

• It costs 21% more to build an extension in London than in other regions.
• The minimum cost is £65,568 and the maximum cost is £102,408.
• The total average cost is £77,957, or £2,598 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Double-Storey Rear Extension

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a double-storey rear extension with a gross external area of 60 square metres:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a double-storey rear extension:

• The minimum cost is £114,540, and the maximum cost is £179,281.
• The total average cost is £136,132, or £2,268 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Ground-Floor Wrap-Around Extension

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a ground-floor wrap-around extension with a gross external area of 35 square metres:

All costs exclude VAT.

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a ground-floor wrap-around extension:

• The minimum cost is £78,096, and the maximum cost is £122,056.
• The total average cost is £92,804, or £2,578 per square metre.

Cost Of Building A Brick Porch

Here’s a table showing the average building costs of a brick porch with a gross external area of five square metres:

All costs exclude VAT

Here’s what the data shows for the cost of building a brick porch:

• The minimum cost is £5,606, and the maximum cost is £8,489.
• The total average cost is £6,584, or £1,317 per square metre.

Summary Of The Average Cost To Build An Extension

So, how much does it cost to build an extension in the UK? Based on the four different extensions we covered, you can expect it to cost on average (when using a mid-benchmark contractor):

• Single-storey rear extension – £78,186, or £2,606 per square metre.
• Double-storey rear extension – £136,525, or £2,275 per square metre.
• Ground-floor wrap-around extension – £93,064, or £2,585 per square metre.
• Brick porch – £6,569, or £1,314 per square metre.

With the exception of a brick porch, you’ll notice that the cost per square metre decreases as the project size increases due to more efficient resource utilisation and lower average costs, leading to economies of scale.

Please remember that these costs do not include VAT.

By Tommy Crabtree